Ikat Fabrics and Techniques

Catriona Fergusson

The term "ikat" comes from an Indonesian word meaning to tie or bind; ikat fabrics are those in which sections of either the warp or weft threads (and sometimes both) have been tie-dyed to make specific patterns. Stripes with shifted colors or flecks are relatively common. Japanese ikat, called "kasuri", can contain extremely complex designs, stylized clan mon, or even animals or plants. Ikat fabrics have been found in Egypt dating to the eighth century and in India dating to the seventh. They are commonly seen in many middle and far eastern costumes.

The process of making ikat can be pretty complex, but this simplified overview can get you started. These directions are for warp ikat, the simplest form. The techniques should produce a striped warp.

1. Cut your length of warp on a frame or reel as usual. Tie it loosely with a single string in several places. Remove from reel or board.
2. Stretch out and attaché the warp to two fixed points (such as two chair backs). If you desire a specific length of stripe, use a ruler and mark points on the warp with a pencil. For a random striping, you may omit the marking.
3. Use a material for tying that you prefer: rubber bands, cotton string, non-melting plastic raffia, etc. You might want to experiment with different ties. The method pictured below works well for tying the bundles. If you have marked out a specific length of stripe, make sure you entire marked area is well covered. Remove skein from fixed points.
For a varied mottled effect, tightly braid your warp rather than tying it.
4. A vital step! Put your tied warp in a pot of cold water. Bring to a boil; simmer for 15 minutes. Remove and squeeze dry. If you are using wool, merely let is soak in hot water before drying.
5. Dye with your favorite material and method. Make sure the skein dyes as evenly as possible. Remove and rinse thoroughly before removing ties. Dry and use as desired.

a. Squeeze yarn bundle firmly with figure ane thumb. Wind tightly.	b. Cover end #1 as bundle is wound. When ready to tie, press binding with middle finger.	c. Make loop with end #1.
d. Pull a loop of end #2 through loop in end #1 and pull #1 tight.	e. This shows a finished knot.	f. Sometimes an especially tight knot is needed (and always for beginners). Make an additional loop with end #1 around the lop of end #2 and pull tight again. Cut the ends, leaving end #2 longer, as this is the one to be pulled when untying later on.

Warp and Weft Ikat

Warp Ikat

---

Source:

Battenfield, Jackie. Ikat Technique. Van Nostrand Reinhold Co., New York 1978.

Tomita, Jun and Noriko. Japanese Ikat Weaving. Routledge and Kegan Paul, London 1982.

---

Previous Article | Next Article | Back to Early Period #15 index
Back to Early Period Index | Back to PastTimes